I have been (not-so-patiently) waiting for the 2004 Baumard Clos du Papillon Savennières, and it finally arrived. What a stunner. Searing acidity offset by a wonderful, rich mid-palate that is somehow extracted from the grape without oak. This will age gracefully for years. I also like Baumard’s commitment to screwcaps. If you happen to get a case, they include some awkwardly translated material on their case for screwcaps. Interestingly, they believe that oxygen has nothing to do with aging of the wine; it is not about air going through the cork, but rather a process that takes place within the wine itself.

In a world of white Burgundy gone mad, with crazy pricing and lavish oak, you can get one of the finest single-vineyard Chenin Blancs for around 30 bucks. Not cheap, but I would take two or three of these rather than one Premier/Grand Cru Chardonnay.