One of the cool things about the Washington wine industry is the dogged determination of a few wineries to keep making wine from grapes that are a tough sell. Like Lemberger. Not only does it sound like that infamously stinky cheese, but its stoic, Germanic name isn’t sexy like, say, Syrah.

However, Lemberger is a really good grape that makes really good wine. Whidbey Island Winery makes a great one; it has a slightly gamey/smoky nose, medium-bodied, and nice acidity. It’s actually quite Pinot Noir-like, almost like a Gevrey Chambertin. (Yes, I just compared a Lemberger to one of the most famous Pinot region in the Cote d’Or.)

And I like the description of the wine on their website: “Bright and rambunctious when young, silky and complex with age.”

(Unlike me.)