At least in Europe. The 2003 vintage was so hot, over 100 degrees a day for two weeks in many cool-climate areas. Cool climate wines have kick-ass acidity, and the heat makes them flabby. If you like big rich opulent New World whites, gobble up the 2003s. Otherwise, wait for 2004. Case in point: The Can Fiexes, an awesome Spanish white from Penedes. The 2003 was OK, but the 2004 is here and it is awesome. RACY acidity and minerality. I’m getting a case; this wine can age big time.

2003 reds are quite good; grab any 2003 Cote Du Rhone or Cotes du Ventoux.

2004 Can Feixes Blanc Seleccio Penedes

It’s incredible, the poor man’s Chablis. And I am poor. The bottle is pretty, too; I’ll post a photo.